Q: Questions About Kiwi and Persimmon.

November 19th, 2009 Andrew @ Peaceful Valley

A PVFS Customer Email - Staff answer.

Question:

I am very ineterested in buying a couple Persimmon - Fuyu-Jiro (Standard) trees and I have a few questions.  Do these type of trees need pollination? Can they grow well in Southern CA? We live in San Diego County, 2 miles away from the ocean. Also, I would like to learn about Kiwwi. the same questions. Thank you!

Answer:

The Fuyu-Jiro Persimmon does not need a pollinator.  They grow within USDA zones 7-9 as long as you get 200 hours of chill time for them, they should do fine.

Also, the Kiwi doesn’t need a pollinator, both male and female flowers are on the same vine.  I’ve attached your local Master Gardener’s Extension office, they may have better information particular to your area then I have available to me.

Take a Look at the Master Gardeners National Website here.

Hope this helps.

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Workshop: Fruit Trees, Winter Pruning & Care

November 10th, 2009 Andrew @ Peaceful Valley

Ellen Solomon is a gardener, certified arborist, horticulturist and garden designer in Grass Valley. She has a degree in environmental horticulture from Sierra College.

If you plan to attend, you must register soon! Call 530-272-4769 x106

The cost is $10. Participants will also receive a 10% off coupon for use in the store.

2 Responses So Far to “Workshop: Fruit Trees, Winter Pruning & Care”

  1. Curt Says:

    How do I winterize rosemary? Should it be prunned? If so how much?

  2. Kristin @ Peaceful Valley Says:

    Most Rosemary species are hardy to 20° F. They can handle light frosts, but not hard freezes. In cold climates bring plants indoors and place them by a sunny window. Shelter those left outdoors from the effects of winter weather by setting them in a cold frame or fashion a cover of Agribon to protect against winter-burn and the heavy weight of snow. Spraying the foliage with an anti-transpirant spray such as Frost Shield gives additional protection.

    Rosemary is very tolerant of pruning, and can be heged, but does not need to be pruned. It’s best to prune right after flowereing, but you can prune it anytime except during flowering.

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lead contamination of soil

November 6th, 2009 mc schnaufer

Testing found high levels of lead in me. Since I do not know the source, I am testing first our well water. If we have lead in our water, can we assume that it will also be in our soil? I often have worked without gloves. Also, what is a reliable way to test the soil in our garden and fields for lead? There is a inexpensive test kit that is sold in hardwares. What would we do to remediate if there is lead in our soil? Thanks, Mary

One Response So Far to “lead contamination of soil”

  1. Mark @ Peaceful Valley Says:

    You can get your soil tested for lead at most Ag labs. If your soil is high in lead, it is usually from old flaking paint deposited in the soil or from living near busy highways (when leaded gas was the norm) or airborne lead from local industries. If your soil proves to have high levels of lead, two things can help keep the lead bound up and less available to plants. Adding lots of organic matter, since organic compounds bind lead and make it less available to the plants. Also, keeping the pH of your soil above 6.5 will make the lead less available to the plants. There are lots of good websites with info about lead in the soil, just search under “lead in soil”.
    Good luck.

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Q: Almond Hulls as mulch

November 6th, 2009 Amber @ Peaceful Valley

I read that almond hulls have a lot of calcium. If that is true, would they make good top dressing for a small vineyard on fairly heave soil?
Thank you,
Val

2 Responses So Far to “Q: Almond Hulls as mulch”

  1. Amber @ Peaceful Valley Says:

    I’m sorry, but I really don’t know and haven’t heard. It seems that the important factors to investigate would be how quickly or slowly the almond hulls break down, how they respond to rainfall and irrigation, if they are effective in weed control (or whatever your desire is for a mulch), and how they affect the soil. These are things I don’t know about with almond hulls. If you have access to them, maybe you should do a trial for yourself on a small scale for a season and observe the results.

    Perhaps one of our other bloggers can help!

  2. Fred Hoffman Says:

    Clyde Elmore, UCD Weed specialist, says almond hulls have been tried as a mulch in pistachio orchards: “Almond hulls worked well as weed control mulch. Crows will move it around looking for almond meats. If the mulch is up against the trunk it could cause problems with rodents and disease.”

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Q: Cover Crop (Green Manure) in Indiana

November 2nd, 2009 Janice @ Peaceful Valley

Question:

Hello,

I’m starting an organic micro-farm in northern Indiana.  The first season is going to be the spring of 2010.  I’m wanting to plant a cover crop and a friend of mine that runs a micro-farm in Colorado recommended you to me and said that I should email or give you a call.  I have two plots that I’ve tilled.  One plot is approximately 80′x40′ and the second is 36′x36′.  Both  plots do contain some clay soil.  What  do you recommend as far as a cover crop for northern Indiana?  And how much seed should I order from you?

Thank you very much for your time.

Answer:

Congratulations on your new farm!
Assuming you have very low temperatures in Indiana I would say one possibility would be our Cold Zone Soil Builder Mix.  It is made up of 85% Hairy Vetch and 15% Cereal Rye which can handle temperatures below 20 degrees fahrenheit.  It’s hardy and in combination with inoculant, will fix nitrogen that will be plant available.  The Hairy Vetch does need 55-60 degrees to germinate.  Rye can germinate down to 34F.  Red Clover is another possibility.  I’ve listed a couple pages from our catalog on the website that you can look over.

http://www.groworganic.com/item_SCM130_Cold_Zone_Soil_Builder_Mix__Raw_.html

http://www.groworganic.com/item_SCN395_Cereal_Rye_Lb.html

http://www.groworganic.com/item_SCL330_Red_Clover__Doublecut__Rhizocoat.html

The Red Clover can tolerate down to 0 degrees.  You have many choices if you wanted to plant in early spring but these three I’ve listed should be ok to plant now.  I wouldn’t wait to long to get them in the ground.

You have a total of 4,496 square feet so if you went with the Cold Zone Soil Builder you would need. 12-15 lbs.  The Red Double-cut Clover would be 5-6 lbs.

Hope this helps

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Q: Appropriate Fruit Trees for Planting Zone

October 29th, 2009 Janice @ Peaceful Valley

A set of  PVFS Customer Emails with Staff Responses.

Question:

I received my fall 2009 catalog and see you carry Redhaven peach trees. I would like to know if they come on Citation rootstock or, if not, what rootstock do they come on?

Answer:

Yes, the Redhaven Peach trees come on Citation rootstock. The bare root trees are available for order now, but will not begin shipping until December. Please feel free to contact me directly with any further questions.

Thank you for your interest and happy Fall!

Question:

I have a few more questions.  I live in The Scott Valley In the Siskiyous, Sunset zone 1.  We get about 90 days between 3 day freezes. I would like to know if my selections will be alright.  1) Harcot on Citation, 2) Chinese on Citation, 3) Italian/Europ Plum on Citation, 4) Craig’s Crimson Cherry?   Also will Harcot or Chinese polinate Tomcot?

Answer:

Sunset zone 1 indicates that you are in a very northern hard freeze area?  I’m afraid I am unable to determine where you live?  The Harcot & Chinese recommends within zones 4-9.  The Tomcot is recommended in zones 7-9.  This would suggest that these trees would not survive the winters.  Do you have a local Master Gardener’s Cooperative in your county?  They could probably help with the local particulars.

Please write back with high and low average temps and your location so I can better serve you.

Question:

Thanks again for your help.

I live in Etna CA. US zone 7, sunset zone 1, but I buy all my trees for zone 4. We have vary short season so it can get pretty cold early in september. I already have a Tomcot apricot and need to know if Harcot or Chineese will polinate Tomcot? and will Italian/Europ Plum do alright here?

Answer:

Looks like the Italian/Euro Plum will do fine in your area, it’s recommendation is for zones 4-9, it blooms late (this is good), and does well in colder regions.

The Tomcot is semi self fruitful but will yield more fruit with any other Apricots in the area.  So you should see more fruit with either the Chinese or Harcot nearby.

The Cherry tree you inquired about may have some challenges with the freezing, if you can put it on a south side close to a building it may do alright, it is zoned for areas 5-10.  The Montmorency and the Van are the only Cherries zoned 4-9.  The Montmorency is self-fruitful, the Van needs pollination by any other sweet cherry.

See our Bare Root Planting Guide here.

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Q: Cover Crop Tilling and Seed

October 28th, 2009 Tom

This was posted as a comment on Cover Crop Solutions. It has been moved here for the sake of visibility.

Hey I just bought some crop. I heard raking it in was a good idea. I did this, but it was soooo time consuming. I got out my tiller and set it to a very very shallow setting, and quickly moved it through. I have planted rye and clover, the seeds are pretty small. There’s only about a quarter inch of soil on the seeds, some being closer to the top than others. Is this a problem?

5 Responses So Far to “Q: Cover Crop Tilling and Seed”

  1. Janice @ Peaceful Valley Says:

    That sounds like a very efficient way to plant the cover crop. The seeds are somewhat varied in size and this would probably happen regardless. It shouldn’t be a problem as long as the seed is covered and has soil contact. Great job!

  2. John Says:

    When do you turn over the cover crop in the spring? I have small raised beds-what is the best way to turn over the crop?

  3. Janice @ Peaceful Valley Says:

    When approximately 1/2 of the cover crop is blooming, before any of it goes to seed is when you want to turn it over. If you have vetch in the mix you may want to chop it up a bit first because it could wrap around tines on a tiller. You can double dig or use a small cultivator to turn the cover crop over.

  4. Curt Says:

    When is the best time to sow a cover crop in southern Ohio along the Ohio River?
    Thanks, Curt

  5. Amber @ Peaceful Valley Says:

    Curt, without knowing your zip code, my guess for your USDA zone is a 6. If that’s true, you should probably plant a fall cover crop in September (keep in mind that it may be necessary for you to protect your cover crop from frost). Check with your local Master Gardeners for zone information, as well as more specific information about when to plant. This website should help you contact the Master Gardeners in your area: http://mastergardener.osu.edu/

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What is a CSA?

October 27th, 2009 Sarah T @ Peaceful Valley

Recently, I was asked what a CSA is and what these letters stand for. While I know what a CSA is, I  didn’t know what the acronym meant. So, I looked to the place where I find many answers, the internet search engine Google! I was able to find out not only what CSA stands for (Community Supported Agriculture) but I found a great website (http://www.localharvest.org/csa/) that gives a lot of information about CSAs and explains what they do, where they are, and how they function. Take a look at this site if you are interested in finding a local CSA in your area, want some great tips on what to expect when joining one, or on your own find out what “CSA” stands for, so you can use the term with confidence!

Have any tips to add about what to expect from a CSA, please respond to this post and share your stories.

Also take a look at our Freshman Farmer blog - filled with our Farmer fledglings most of which have created and are running their very own CSA farms.

Happy growing!

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Composting is AMAZING

October 26th, 2009 Janice @ Peaceful Valley
PVFS Brand Organic Compost

PVFS Brand Organic Compost

I’ve had the privilege of attending a free composting class sponsored by Nevada County Recycles which took place at Fulcrum Farm in Penn Valley. It was taught by one of the owners of Fulcrum Farm, Marney Blair (Fulcrum Farm produces the very same compost we use at our local store to brew our fabulous compost tea!). I came away from this class excited, inspired and just generally feeling good about how amazing composting can be!

I knew a bit going in but came out with that “I know nothing” sense on this subject… however very excited about learning so much more about the process. It can seem complicated but it’s not and it’s ALL natural, it’s the ultimate recycling program. I picked up a couple key points, like most residuals, i.e., pesticides, fertilizers, etc., will be neutralized through the process. I learned about how to touch and feel for moisture content and bulk density, what is carbon and what is nitrogen… then how to combine the various materials just by knowing what you are looking at and feeling. I learned what good compost should look like, smell like and feel like. If it’s black… NOT good, it’s been burned. I never knew that!

Anyway, there’s another class coming up next week and I CAN’T WAIT to go! Once you’ve gone to one of these classes, Marney will come out and do a free consultation to. She was a wonderful and inspirational teacher. You can always tell when someone has passion for what they do. Marney’s got compost passion. If you want to get in on this party:

Contact Lynne Cody Lacroix
Recycling Technician, Nevada County Recycles
950 Maidu Avenue
Nevada City, CA 95959
530.265.7119
NevadaCountyRecycles.com

You’ll be glad you did!

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Potato Plantin’

October 22nd, 2009 Andrew @ Peaceful Valley
Beautiful colorful organic potato varieties!

Beautiful colorful organic potato varieties!

(Taken from PVFS October In the Loop Newsletter) if you would like to receive this newsletter email us at orderdesk@groworganic.com with your full name and email address.

First of all, a Customer Success Story:
Bill Bird and his wife Venus planted one pound of potatoes in their 4′x8′ raised bed and harvested nearly 100 pounds of potatoes this summer! They enjoyed many Cranberry Red and All Blue potatoes this year.

Bill said he fertilizerd two to three times a month with a mixture of Omega 2000 and diluted Maxicrop, which he believes aided in their success. Great job Bill & Venus!

And Now….How-to Grow Potatoes:
by Dan Lake, Peaceful Valley Employee

Since I was 12 years old, my family has grown about 4 or 5 different varieties of potatoes in our garden at home every year. I would love to brag about my tater planting abilities, and with all of that experience one would think that I was a spud growing expert, but after reflecting on what I knew, I came to a different conclusion: I devoted most of my time harvesting & eating the delicious potatoes and have a lot to learn about the process of planting them!

Now that I have my own garden, I’ve done some research, talked to a friend who happens to be a farmer, and have compiled some good tips below.

Crop Rotation: When planting potatoes from season to season, they should be kept on a 3 year rotating cycle in terms of location in your garden where you choose to plant as to not plant in the same location. This means, 3-4 suitable sites are needed if you want to grow potatoes every year, rotating the site where you plant every season.

Soil & Sun: When it comes to soil, potatoes are not very picky. They are very adaptable and will usually produce a decent crop even when the soil conditions are less than perfect. What they do require, however, is as much sun as possible because of how aggressive their root systems are, so keep that in mind when picking your spot(s) to plant.

Preparing Seed Potatoes: When you have your seed, which are potatoes certified for growing, set them somewhere where they will be exposed to some light and warmth (between 60 and 70 degrees F). This will help them to start sprouting. A day or two before planting, use a clean knife to slice the larger potatoes into smaller sections that contain at least 1 or 2 “eyes” or buds on them (seeds). Each seed should be approximately 1 1/2-2 inches square, and the smaller potatoes may be planted whole. In the next day or so, your seed will form a thick callous over the cuts, which will help to prevent it from rotting once planted.

Planting Seed Potatoes: After you have trenched a 4′” deep furrow, plant the seeds or small potatoes 4″ deep in the furrow about 12″ apart and cover lightly with soil. The soil should be evenly moist, but not wet or soggy. If the soil is water logged when you dig, your seed potatoes will probably rot before they even get started. Depending on how cold it gets in your area, it might be a good idea to put a layer of mulch or straw on top of the furrow for a little extra frost protection. Two to Four months later, you will hopefully be enjoying some of the most delicious potatoes ever!

You can also reference our Potato Planting & Growing Guide online.

One Response So Far to “Potato Plantin’”

  1. Landscapers Directory Says:

    Great post. I love Organic Potato’s.

    Thanks

    MyCityLandscapers.com

    Landscaping Directory

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