Organic Gardening Info from Peaceful Valley

PVFS Customer question – Staff Response

Question:

I have a question regarding flowers we purchased last year. The flowers are 10 Ranunculus Tecolote. I planted they in the late fall, but only one has appeared so far. I wondered what I should do to get the others to come up. If you can help me I would appreciate it. Thanks Paula

Answer:

I would gently dig the area to see if the bulbs are still there, trying not to disturb any new root hairs. Of course, they may have rotted or a rodent could have eaten them. Did you soak the bulbs first? If they are still there and hard little nuggets, you could soak them for a couple of hours and replant once they’ve swelled.

Hope this helps

Also Take a Look at our Fall Bulb Planting Guide here.

I live near Portland OR and am interested in information on the use of Austrian Peas as a cover crop. To be planted in early August and also in early October.

None of my pecan trees and one Pedro walnut, various ages from 2 years to 6 years, leafed out this spring.  Instead, some of them produced suckers from the rootstock.  I have a horrible gopher problem this year and think they were what happened to the trees.   Almonds don’t appear to be damaged, nor do fruit trees. 

Question is:  What kind of tree do I get if I leave the suckers growing?

We are battling serious Johnson Grass. What cover crop would help in a small pasture that is cleared for the moment but still has roots under the soil? Are there any other strategies to combat this invasive weed that is making vegetable and flower gardening very hard? Thanks!

What causes newly forming squash to mold and rot on the plant before maturing?

A PVFS Customer Question – Staff Response:

Question:

Hi,
I love your website and all the information you provide…I love your catalog too (call it a dream book). Up here in hot/dry/gardening-challenged Reno, my little experimental raised bed (first-time square-foot veggie garden here) has failed miserably. In spite of all my efforts to get good soil (Gardner & Bloome), good compost, daily hand-watering, nothing but the chives survived. Just today I discovered that the only tomato that emerged from my brandywine plant looks really weird on the bottom (a paler green plus a sort of lattice-looking). Each time a little zucchini blossom appeared, by the next day it had withered and there hasn’t been any hint of a little squash. Sigh. At first I thought the ‘pillbugs’ had gotten to everything, but as I patiently depleted that population by hand-picking, everything still failed to thrive. Double sigh. I don’t know whether to give up completely forever (what’s that famous Indian slogan: “I shall fight no more forever”?), OR try to succession-plant something like lettuce and chard, or just wait til next year?

Sorry to ramble on, but just wondered if you had any ideas?
Thanks – no emergency to respond, since the damage is already done.

Answer:

Thank you so much for your good feedback and support! We sure appreciate your business. Reno is really a hard place to garden and I’m sorry you’ve had such a difficult experience so far. But please, don’t give up yet! Gardening is all about trial and error, experimentation, and learning (there’s ALWAYS more to learn, even for the 20 year gardener!).
I’ll address your problems and offer possible reasons, as well as resources for you to look into for further information.
1.) Weird Brandywine bottoms-heirloom tomatoes often have lattice-looking bottoms, as well as funky ridges, it’s normal. If the bottom develops a rot, it could be a disease called Blossom End Rot. Here’s a good website for common tomato problems:

http://www.coopext.colostate.edu/4dmg/Pests/Diseases/tomaprob.htm

2.) Zucchini blossom wither-it could also be Blossom End Rot, or maybe poor pollination. Here’s a good discussion: http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf48032930.tip.html
3.) I say “yes” to planting cool season crops like chard, kale, and lettuce. Those crops are a bit easier to deal with, and they just might boost your confidence and joy for next Summers’ gardening endeavors.

I’d also like to add that square foot gardening has both pros and cons. As far as I understand, it is a more intensive system, requiring more input and attention (yes, you can grow a lot in a little space, but only if you do it just right!). The root systems are more crowded, and the plants are competing for resources since they are so close together, causing some extra stress. Here’s what seemed like a good, balanced testimonial on the subject: http://www.beginner-gardening.com/square-foot-gardening.html

There are many resources and forums online, this one is specific for square foot gardening:
http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/sqfoot/

Organic gardening shouldn’t be viewed as a “fight” or a “war” as our conventional counterparts would have you believe. It’s a chance to observe the patterns of nature and the cycles of growth. It’s finding the balance between human intervention and natural systems in order to achieve both abundance and health for all involved. Sure there are “successes” and “failures”, but the journey should bring joy to your heart. If you find that it doesn’t, maybe then consider doing something else that will.

Hope that helps and thank you for growing organically!

Question:

Hi, I have a question about cover crops…I am an organic garderner and I am looking for a cover crop to put in my naked beds that will winterkill. I do not till my beds, Everything I have tried does not die back. Thank you for your help

PVFS Customer Email with Staff Response

Question:

Question for you: I’ve grown garlics for many years for the Seed Savers Exchange and agree entirely with the tips given in this In the Loop release! I also have grown bunching onion, topset onion, and shallot varieties for the SSE for years, and this past year took on close to 100 additional allium and garlic varieties:

Should I provide any different care for shallots than I provide for garlics? I have experienced dwindling vigor and yields, even loss, of a few shallot varieties over the past 20-30 years, and while I will try hard to get these newly-acquired varieties out and in the hands of other growers as quickly as possible, I really need to find out what is causing them (and topsetting onions) to decline and fail over time in my garden, while garlics and bunching onions thrive. [I took on Louis VanDeven's collection last summer, close to 100 alliums and garlics, when at 89 he feared he would not be able to continue to maintain them. He passed away this summer, knowing that only two varieties had not survived the move, and all the others had produced a healthy abundant yield in their new home....]

Answer:

The first thought that comes to mind is, Are you using a three-year crop rotation and not planting the shallots (any alliums) in the same place every year? The second thought is if you have had a soil test done to see what nutrients are missing form the soil? Also, I would check with your county agricultural office as they may have been asked this information from other farmers in your area. Other farmers would be another source.

It sounds like you have something pretty special and I hope you find the information you need!

I am planning on relocating from SW Florida to the Asheville area of N.C. Can someone let me know what types of planning would work there and during what months are the best times to plant. Thanks!

A PVFS Customer Email – with Staff response.

Question:

I used a 50lb bag of budget soil builder mix last year but only plan to use 1/2 that amount this year and would like to know if I can store the unused amount along with the unused amount of the innoculant for the following year if it would be ok.
The other question I have is on the mini perennial clover-grass mix (SCM750) and the low-growing clover mix (SCM700). Which one would be a better long term use with the least amount of care and how much water should I expect to give them and how tall should I let them grow before mowing them. I have pretty light sandy soil where my fruit tress are planted and I plan to use one of these produts in between my fruit trees to keep the dust down and leave the area around the trees rototilled. Thank you.

Answer:

The seed should be fine if you store it in a cool, dry place. You should purchase new inoculant next year, however.

Both the low growing clover and the mini clover-grass mix are good choices as far as low maintenance. It just depends on whether you want some grass as well as the clover. They are both perennial mixes, so you should expect to water regularly (the frequency and length of time really depends on how fast draining your sandy soil is. Keep in mind that the trees like deeper watering, you might consider sprayers for between the trees and soakers around the dripline of the trees). Once established, you can mow after about 4″. Fall would be the best time to plant.

Hope that helps and thank you for growing organically!