Archive for the ‘Fruit & Nut Trees’ Category

A New Fruit Tree Orchard

Wednesday, March 17th, 2010

Hi Everyone,  

I am new to the Peaceful Valley Farm Blog site, but will be offering ideas and comments regularly.  Hope I can be of help with your farm and garden questions.

I  have a new homestead that I just moved into last May, so this winter was my first opportunity to plant fruit trees.  The soil is red clay dirt, typical to the California Sierra Foothills.  We dug our holes about 10 times the size of the root ball, amended our soil with compost, worm castings, oyster shell lime, gypsum, kelp, greensand and some microbial inoculant to get the microbial activity going in the soil.  The root ball now has a good amount of room for the roots to move out and food to nourish the young trees.

We created a new fenced in area for this orchard, so the whole area has not been amended.  My plan is to rototill the area surrounding the trees, amend the soil with similar amendments and plant a summer cover crop.  This will aid the surrounding soil into having more tilth and nutrients, so that when the young trees roots reach the edge of their prepared hole they will find a healthier, easier to move into soil, instead of hard red clay.  

We will have the opportunity to amend the surrounding soil by planting summer and winter cover crops this summer and winter.  Next summer I will probably use the area between the young trees to plant a summer vegetable garden.

Good Growing,  Kalita

Q: Peach Leaf Curl and Dormant Sprays

Tuesday, March 9th, 2010

A PVFS Customer Question with Staff Response

Question:
How do you deal with peach leaf curl. I guess it’s a problem here. Some people use a copper spray. That’s not organic is it? What do I need to do to prevent this or to help the peach survive this. Thanks, Susan

Answer:
Most people use either a copper or sulfur spray during the dormant season. Ideally, you would spray three times while the leaves are off the tree, with the third spray being just as a little bud color is beginning to show. The sprays we sell are used by organic home-gardeners. If you have our 2010 Main catalog, the lavender section on page 130 explains the use of mineral fungicides quite well. If you are a certified organic grower, you must check with your certifying agency to see if the products are approved.

I have had some success at treating peach leaf curl with compost tea during the growing season. Some people pick all the infected leaves off and fertilize to help the tree make a new set of leaves, which are usually disease free. If you decide to replace the tree, Frost & Q-18 are two curl-resistant varieties.

Hope this helps,

Bare-root for YOUR area!

Thursday, January 14th, 2010

Here at Peaceful Valley, we are in the throes of bare-root sales. However, the terms and restrictions for what can and cannot be planted can be confusing, especially for the first time grower.

The first thing to consider is your growing zone. This is a general description of how warm or cold your temperatures get year round. Where people tend to get confused, even experienced growers, is that in the US, there are two different forms of zone charting: The USDA and Sunset Magazine, possibly more. For simplicity, Peaceful Valley employs the USDA chart exclusively.

How, then, can you find, with any certainty, what USDA zone are you in? You can find zone maps in many locations, but even those cannot be as specific as you need. Fortunately, the good folks at the National Gardening Association have put together a searchable zone chart! Simply go here, and enter your zip code. You will get not only your USDA zone, but links to articles pertaining to growing conditions in YOUR area!

Another question many people have is “How many chill hours do I have? What is a chill hour, anyway?” According to Dave Wilson (the company that has supplied the majority of our bare-root trees for nearly a decade, and services many other nurseries around the nation) a chill hour is defined as one hour under 45 degrees Fahrenheit. However, its not always that simple. For every hour over 60 degrees, you have to subtract one hour. There are other, more specific rules (search for Utah Model Chill), but this is a good general guide.

Now, most people don’t sit out with a clipboard and a thermometer every day, calculating chill data. So, to get your approximate number of chill hours, you would go to your local Ag department — they usually have that data. If you are lucky enough to live in California, our wonderful UC system actually has monitoring up and down the state, with not only recent data, but in some cases, going back 5 years — you get a great picture of trends. The website, broken down by county, can be found here.

As always, we are here to help. Our catalog features many different icons to give you an idea of what grows well in warm climates (ideal for areas like Los Angeles), and what grows well in frigid areas, like Nebraska. But remember, we cannot hold shipments until it gets warm enough for you to plant. There is a method called “heeling in”, which allows you to care for your bare root plants until you are able to plant them in their permanent home. The literature we send out with our plants includes that information, but it can be viewed by downloading the .pdf file on the description page of all our bare-root stock.

Good luck, and Happy Planting!

8000 Bare Root Trees

Monday, December 14th, 2009

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2009 – just weeks before the impending future… 2010. As the cool morning air settles, the PVFS staff dons their yellow rain slickers and prepares to receive a massive truck packed full of bare root trees.
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Only the “powers-that-be” know how many happy people will set their teeth into a piece of luscious fruit produced from one of these fantastic fruit trees within the coming years.
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You have probably sat around on many occasions and wondered “what does it look like to pack 8,000 bare root trees into a cargo truck?” The truck is full of bare root fruit trees and bare root nut trees.  Well question no longer:
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The general process for receiving these trees requires us to unload them, bundle them to their corresponding bin, count them, “heel them in” and then begin to fill orders. With a full crew down in the warehouse just unloading and “heeling-in” these bare roots will take the entire day – perhaps the first half of the following day.
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We have already taken orders for about a quarter of these trees, they are selling fast. Place your order now to receive the varieties that meet your zone and chill hour requirements!
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If you would like more information about Bare Root Trees see our literature here.

To Compare the beautiful weather we are having this year compared to unloading these trees last year click here.

Read our article below to help you with planting your bare root trees:

How to plant a bare root tree

Q: Apple Tree Care – Pruning and Dormant Sprays

Wednesday, November 25th, 2009

Question:

Greetings and Such

We have a very old pie apple tree. It produces very well, but needs some care. Prunning for example; when should I prune and how much should I prune? When the leaves fall off should I spray, if so, what kind of spray do I need? We live in zone 5…. I think, northern Utah.

Answer:

Hi There Apple Pie Tree Owner
Sounds like you have a wonderful old tree that just needs a little loving care.   Now is a really good time to prune.  Take off any branches that shoot straight up-they are water shoots and don’t produce fruit.  Also thinning the interior is a good idea.  You can also summer prune to get a nice shape.  There is lots of information out there  on line, at your local library or your local farm advisor on fruit tree pruning for more  precise information.

This is a good time to begin your dormant spray regiment,  usually three times a season, Thanksgiving, Christmas and Valentine’s Day.  Dormant spray help prevent such things as codling moth and other fungal problems.  You might want to look at

Organic JMS Sytlet Oil which one of our most popular organic dormant sprays.   To find out more about dormant sprays look at our website or in our catalogue.

Take a look at this article for more information on dormant sprays.

Take a Look at these videos about pruning fruit trees here.

Happy Holidays

Q: Questions About Kiwi and Persimmon.

Thursday, November 19th, 2009

A PVFS Customer Email – Staff answer.

Question:

I am very ineterested in buying a couple Persimmon – Fuyu-Jiro (Standard) trees and I have a few questions.  Do these type of trees need pollination? Can they grow well in Southern CA? We live in San Diego County, 2 miles away from the ocean. Also, I would like to learn about Kiwwi. the same questions. Thank you!

Answer:

The Fuyu-Jiro Persimmon does not need a pollinator.  They grow within USDA zones 7-9 as long as you get 200 hours of chill time for them, they should do fine.

Also, the Kiwi doesn’t need a pollinator, both male and female flowers are on the same vine.  I’ve attached your local Master Gardener’s Extension office, they may have better information particular to your area then I have available to me.

Take a Look at the Master Gardeners National Website here.

Hope this helps.

Q: Appropriate Fruit Trees for Planting Zone

Thursday, October 29th, 2009

A set of  PVFS Customer Emails with Staff Responses.

Question:

I received my fall 2009 catalog and see you carry Redhaven peach trees. I would like to know if they come on Citation rootstock or, if not, what rootstock do they come on?

Answer:

Yes, the Redhaven Peach trees come on Citation rootstock. The bare root trees are available for order now, but will not begin shipping until December. Please feel free to contact me directly with any further questions.

Thank you for your interest and happy Fall!

Question:

I have a few more questions.  I live in The Scott Valley In the Siskiyous, Sunset zone 1.  We get about 90 days between 3 day freezes. I would like to know if my selections will be alright.  1) Harcot on Citation, 2) Chinese on Citation, 3) Italian/Europ Plum on Citation, 4) Craig’s Crimson Cherry?   Also will Harcot or Chinese polinate Tomcot?

Answer:

Sunset zone 1 indicates that you are in a very northern hard freeze area?  I’m afraid I am unable to determine where you live?  The Harcot & Chinese recommends within zones 4-9.  The Tomcot is recommended in zones 7-9.  This would suggest that these trees would not survive the winters.  Do you have a local Master Gardener’s Cooperative in your county?  They could probably help with the local particulars.

Please write back with high and low average temps and your location so I can better serve you.

Question:

Thanks again for your help.

I live in Etna CA. US zone 7, sunset zone 1, but I buy all my trees for zone 4. We have vary short season so it can get pretty cold early in september. I already have a Tomcot apricot and need to know if Harcot or Chineese will polinate Tomcot? and will Italian/Europ Plum do alright here?

Answer:

Looks like the Italian/Euro Plum will do fine in your area, it’s recommendation is for zones 4-9, it blooms late (this is good), and does well in colder regions.

The Tomcot is semi self fruitful but will yield more fruit with any other Apricots in the area.  So you should see more fruit with either the Chinese or Harcot nearby.

The Cherry tree you inquired about may have some challenges with the freezing, if you can put it on a south side close to a building it may do alright, it is zoned for areas 5-10.  The Montmorency and the Van are the only Cherries zoned 4-9.  The Montmorency is self-fruitful, the Van needs pollination by any other sweet cherry.

See our Bare Root Planting Guide here.

Q: When Will My Bare Root Fruit Trees Begin to Fruit?

Wednesday, October 14th, 2009

A PVFS Customer Email – With Staff Response

Question:
Hi,

I’m thinking of ordering a couple of fig trees (Desert king / Osborne Prolific), persimmon (Fuyu) and grapes (Interlaken). Do you know long it will take for them to start fruiting?

Thanks

Answer:

Regarding the Fig and Persimmon trees, it’s possible that they will fruit the 1st year for the Fig and 2nd for the Persimmon. It is better for the trees if you do not allow them to fully fruit out the first couple years so the tree will use it’s resources to establish a healthy root system. If they put out very much fruit the first couple years pick most of it off.

The grapes will possibly fruit by the 2nd year, again you want the first couple years focused on the root system for longevity and higher, healthier yields later on. Plus all this has variables related to the health of your soil and placement of the trees and vines. Southern exposure with full sun will fruit out the grapes faster.

Hope this helps. Thank you for your interest.

The sweet smell of Fall one last hold out!

Friday, October 9th, 2009

If you haven’t been to Peaceful Valley Farm Supply nursery you really must come and check it out.  There is a plant here that is my new “favorite” plant!  They are carrying a Silverberry Fruitlandii (Elaeagnus pungens) that has the most surprising fragrance.  In fact it’s hard to tell where that smell is coming from!  It actually reminds me of Hawaii!  The flowers are small and somewhat hidden at the base of the shrub.. probably the last place you’d look for flowers, but that SMELL will keep you looking!  The leaves have the two tone leaf color, gray/silver undersides and olive green top.  It’s in it’s prime now so you have one last summer hold out that makes you lift your head and breathe deep… ummmmm!  It can be pruned to various bush type shapes or allowed to go wild and shoot up toward the sky, well anywhere from 6 – 12 feet high that is. This is a hardy shrub that stands up to very dry conditions.  So plant it in places your hose can’t reach.  Plant it now and the fall and winter rains will help get it established in it’s new home.

Of course, there’s lots more to see and choose from.  Native plants, vegetable starts, trees, bulbs, annual and perennial flowers even cacti.  Come see what’s growing here at Peaceful Valley Farm Supply just waiting for a happy home to live out it’s life.

Q: How Many Varieities on Multi-Graft Fruit Trees

Friday, September 25th, 2009

Take a look at our Bare-root fruit and nut Trees here online. We are currently working on completing our Winter catalog which will be packed full of bare root goodness! These fantastic books should begin shipping 10/15!

PVFS Customer Email – Staff Answer

Question:

I am interested in ordering the multi grafted pluot, however I am confused to how many varieties I will received. On your picture it shows 4 in 1 pluot and I quote, “Multi-grafted trees have four different varieties grafted onto one rootstock so you can enjoy more variety and extended harvests in one quarter the space”. However you provide me with these additional descriptions that make me believe I will get 3 varieties: Three of the following four varieties: Flavor King®, Flavor Queen®, Flavor Supreme®, and Zaiger’s Dapple Dandy®. -Enjoy three different fruits or varieties on one tree! So how many varieties will I get? And how much for shipping?

Thanks.

Answer:

The reason we say you will get any 3 of the 4 varieties listed is due to the nature of multi-grafted trees; one graft is likely to fail. If you get a tree that has all 4 grafts successful, then its like a bonus (you paid for 3 but its possible to get 4).

Shipping is $30 for a box that holds up to 10 fruit trees – (so, shipping is $30 whether you buy one tree or ten trees – to get the best price on shipping it is best to order as close to 10 trees as possible).

Hope that helps and thank you for growing organically!


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