Archive for the ‘Fruit & Nut Trees’ Category

Q: Let The Suckers Grow?

Wednesday, August 19th, 2009

None of my pecan trees and one Pedro walnut, various ages from 2 years to 6 years, leafed out this spring.  Instead, some of them produced suckers from the rootstock.  I have a horrible gopher problem this year and think they were what happened to the trees.   Almonds don’t appear to be damaged, nor do fruit trees. 

Question is:  What kind of tree do I get if I leave the suckers growing?

Q: Raised Beds Preparation

Thursday, June 4th, 2009

A PVFS customer email – with staff response.

Question:

I have made a raised bed garden past month. The soil needs preparing for Spring. What do you recommend? I would like to get something planted down to get some nitrogen fixation and to make the soil more loamy. I live near Pasadena and the soil in the raised beds is more sandy with little clay component. I am currently growing several fruit trees in the center of each raised bed. Plenty of .

thoughts? I do have plenty of Azomite, sun and non-chlorinated mountain water for irrigation

Answer:

Our most popular cover crop is called the Soil Builder mix. It’s a mix of vetches, peas, bell beans, and oats. It provides a lot of growth for organic matter and fixes a lot of nitrogen, especially when you use an inoculant. The part number is SCM120, the inoculant is ISE350.

Since you have trees in the beds, be careful when incorporating the cover crop into the soil in the spring. You might consider not tilling in the crop inside of the drip line of the trees, but pull it out and compost it instead. Outside of the drip line, you can dig in the crop manually or with a rototiller. Wait 4-6 weeks after incorporation to plant anything in the beds.

Hope that helps! Thank you for growing organically!

Q: Growing Blueberries

Tuesday, May 26th, 2009

Question:

Dear Expert,

I am new to gardening, and I’ve had a little luck with the usual
suspects: tomatoes, peppers, onion and so forth. I would like to
plant blueberries next year. I live in Santa Monica, California and
would like to know if the sharpblues have any hope of thriving there.
If so, when can I get them from you and what exactly do I need to do
to create the right conditions. I understand that in CA we have too
much alkaline in our soil, but I don’t know how to prepare the
appropriate recipe in buckets to grow blueberries. I have compost
here. Can you help me?

Thank you,

Answer:

I looked up the data on Chill Hours for your area, and it seems to me that Sharpblue requires more than your climate could give (look here for California Chill hours by County). Chill hours are the number of hours below 45 degrees between November and February, many fruit trees and bushes need a certain amount of these hours in order to set fruit. The blueberries we carried last year with the lowest chill hours are the Misty and the O’Neal (you need at least two different varieties for pollination). However, when you receive the Fall catalog, you may find new varieties with low chill hours. You can sign up to receive a catalog if you don’t already at www.groworganic.com. We have blueberries in the winter, sold as “bare root” because they are dormant, but you can order in Fall when you get the catalog.

As far as growing in containers, you might consider using 2/3 Peat moss and 1/3 potting soil, as well as an acid fertilizer (you could throw in some compost if you’d like). We have a good fertilizer called the “Acid Mix”.

Hope that helps! Thanks for growing organically!

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Q: Potting Fruit Trees

Tuesday, May 26th, 2009