Archive for the ‘Tips and Tricks’ Category

Potato Plantin’

Thursday, October 22nd, 2009
Beautiful colorful organic potato varieties!

Beautiful colorful organic potato varieties!

(Taken from PVFS October In the Loop Newsletter) if you would like to receive this newsletter email us at orderdesk@groworganic.com with your full name and email address.

First of all, a Customer Success Story:
Bill Bird and his wife Venus planted one pound of potatoes in their 4′x8′ raised bed and harvested nearly 100 pounds of potatoes this summer! They enjoyed many Cranberry Red and All Blue potatoes this year.

Bill said he fertilizerd two to three times a month with a mixture of Omega 2000 and diluted Maxicrop, which he believes aided in their success. Great job Bill & Venus!

And Now….How-to Grow Potatoes:
by Dan Lake, Peaceful Valley Employee

Since I was 12 years old, my family has grown about 4 or 5 different varieties of potatoes in our garden at home every year. I would love to brag about my tater planting abilities, and with all of that experience one would think that I was a spud growing expert, but after reflecting on what I knew, I came to a different conclusion: I devoted most of my time harvesting & eating the delicious potatoes and have a lot to learn about the process of planting them!

Now that I have my own garden, I’ve done some research, talked to a friend who happens to be a farmer, and have compiled some good tips below.

Crop Rotation: When planting potatoes from season to season, they should be kept on a 3 year rotating cycle in terms of location in your garden where you choose to plant as to not plant in the same location. This means, 3-4 suitable sites are needed if you want to grow potatoes every year, rotating the site where you plant every season.

Soil & Sun: When it comes to soil, potatoes are not very picky. They are very adaptable and will usually produce a decent crop even when the soil conditions are less than perfect. What they do require, however, is as much sun as possible because of how aggressive their root systems are, so keep that in mind when picking your spot(s) to plant.

Preparing Seed Potatoes: When you have your seed, which are potatoes certified for growing, set them somewhere where they will be exposed to some light and warmth (between 60 and 70 degrees F). This will help them to start sprouting. A day or two before planting, use a clean knife to slice the larger potatoes into smaller sections that contain at least 1 or 2 “eyes” or buds on them (seeds). Each seed should be approximately 1 1/2-2 inches square, and the smaller potatoes may be planted whole. In the next day or so, your seed will form a thick callous over the cuts, which will help to prevent it from rotting once planted.

Planting Seed Potatoes: After you have trenched a 4′” deep furrow, plant the seeds or small potatoes 4″ deep in the furrow about 12″ apart and cover lightly with soil. The soil should be evenly moist, but not wet or soggy. If the soil is water logged when you dig, your seed potatoes will probably rot before they even get started. Depending on how cold it gets in your area, it might be a good idea to put a layer of mulch or straw on top of the furrow for a little extra frost protection. Two to Four months later, you will hopefully be enjoying some of the most delicious potatoes ever!

You can also reference our Potato Planting & Growing Guide online.

Glaser Wheel Hoe-A Farmer’s Friend

Friday, October 16th, 2009

There’s been some interest of late in our Glaser Wheel Hoe’s.  These are worth taking a look at for the small garden or full production farms.  We carry two different styles and sizes.  One is the Standard and the other the Professional. Now for those of you that can remember sting ray bicycles you’ll recognize the same type of handles on the Standard Wheel Hoe.  You can ride that puppy through your garden making short work (and a whole lot less bending) of those new weeds that the recent rains have encouraged to grow.  The Professional is a little beefier and has wider coverage than the Standard, as well as more attachment options.  I have used the Standard and I must say they do take those young weeds out in a jiffy.  The blade sits on top of the ground and you push it along digging just underneath the soil line popping off weeds in one swift pass.  If they are bigger plants with bigger root systems it may take a couple passes.  The blades are designed so you can “rock” back and forth if you need to, they cut from both sides of the blade.  This long honored farmer’s tool has several blade sizes to fit most garden designs.  The Standard can take 5″ - 10″ stirrup hoe blades, center or offset.  The Professional can take 11″- 14″ stirrup hoe blades, center or offset, as well as hiller/furrower, goosefoot and 3-tine cultivator attachments.  This is one versatile tool.  Made of rust-protected steel hardware and galvanized tubular steel handles, which are exceptionally light and maneuverable.  If you are in the area stop by our store,  hold and touch one to see how it might feel out in your own field.   You’ll be surprised how light they are.  Happy Weeding!  I mean Happy Halloween!

Bulb Winter Snooze

Thursday, October 15th, 2009

A lot of our earliest and most vibrant reminders of Spring are bulbs.  But what happens after the flowers have gone and the leaf material has turned brown and wilted?  If they are inter-planted with other perennial plants or late blooming bulbs your beds will look wonderful through summer.  Then Winter hits and we sometimes wonder where the bulbs went and will they make it through our typical winter freezes?  The good news is that most of our favorite bulbs are in the hardy plant category that can over winter underground even where frost penetrates deeply into the soil.  Crocus, Daffodils, Tulips, Lillies and Hyacinths fall into this category.  Bulbs will benefit greatly from a 2-4″ deep mulch of shredded bark or hardwood, leaves or compost.  Mulch prevents the ground from alternately freezing and thawing, which can heave bulbs right out of the ground during winter.  In summer, mulch conserves moisture and keeps the weeds at bay.  Wait until the ground freezes to apply a winter mulch to fall planted bulbs.  Check your local Master Gardeners County Extension for more information in your area.

Q: Overwhelmed With Cover Crop Choices

Thursday, September 10th, 2009

PVFS Customer Question with Staff Response.

Question:

Hi, I am a bit overwhelmed with cover crops. I have a raised bed garden that is 5-years old and I feel it is time to plant a cover crop for this soil. Every year I put in my compost, but have never done the cover crop thing. Can you give me any suggestions? It is 24 sq. ft. and I have had an increase in bad bugs: cabbage worms, snails and cucumber beetles to name the predominant. Also, my tomatoes that usually do really well were less than stellar this year. It could be the cooler, wet weather we had this season, but I would think the fixing of nitrogen could only help. So, please let me know what you think I should do. Thanks so much.

Answer:

Don’t be overwhelmed! It’s true that there are a lot of choices for cover cropping, but when you narrow down the focus, it becomes more clear about how to handle it. Sounds like you want a “green manure” crop; that is, you want to grow something with the intent to till it back into the soil. It will fix nitrogen, stabilize the soil, encourage microorganism activity, add organic matter, etc. Please read the Peaceful Valley literature (here) on the topic for information on planting and more.

Our most popular green manure mix is called the Soil Builder Mix. Using Inoculant will ensure that your crop produces the most amount of Nitrogen possible. A couple of suggestions for your tomato and pest problems is to be sure to clean up the garden after the season (ie-remove leaves, debris, etc.), and be sure to rotate your crops every year.

Hope that helps and thank you for growing organically!

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Q: Where to Plant Good Bug Blend

Thursday, August 27th, 2009

PVFS Customer Question - Staff Response

Question:

Should I put these stakes of good bug food in the shade under my orange trees,
or in the sun where the “low growing good bug blend” has been growing, gone
to seed, and is now dying out?

By the way, the low growing good bug seed works.  I’ve never seen so many
bees, lady bugs, and small wasps in the garden.  I don’t recommend planting
vegtables in with the good bug blend, however.  These vegtables were under
constant attack by bugs.  The vegtables planted in a bed beside the good bug
blend had less of a problem with bugs than in previous years.

Thank you for your time and consideration.

Sincerely

Answer:

Thank you for your input on the Good Bug Blend, we appreciate it!  You can go ahead and put the Good Bug Food out in multiple places.  The idea is you want to encourage the good bugs to stick around your property, because they will leave if there isn’t a food source, so as many places as possible is best.

Hope that helps and thank you for growing organically!

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Q: Fall Flower Bulbs - No Flowers

Wednesday, August 26th, 2009

PVFS Customer question - Staff Response

Question:

I have a question regarding flowers we purchased last year. The flowers are 10 Ranunculus Tecolote. I planted they in the late fall, but only one has appeared so far. I wondered what I should do to get the others to come up. If you can help me I would appreciate it. Thanks Paula

Answer:

I would gently dig the area to see if the bulbs are still there, trying not to disturb any new root hairs. Of course, they may have rotted or a rodent could have eaten them. Did you soak the bulbs first? If they are still there and hard little nuggets, you could soak them for a couple of hours and replant once they’ve swelled.

Hope this helps

Also Take a Look at our Fall Bulb Planting Guide here.

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Q: Reno 911

Friday, August 14th, 2009

A PVFS Customer Question - Staff Response:

Question:

Hi,
I love your website and all the information you provide…I love your catalog too (call it a dream book). Up here in hot/dry/gardening-challenged Reno, my little experimental raised bed (first-time square-foot veggie garden here) has failed miserably. In spite of all my efforts to get good soil (Gardner & Bloome), good compost, daily hand-watering, nothing but the chives survived. Just today I discovered that the only tomato that emerged from my brandywine plant looks really weird on the bottom (a paler green plus a sort of lattice-looking). Each time a little zucchini blossom appeared, by the next day it had withered and there hasn’t been any hint of a little squash. Sigh. At first I thought the ‘pillbugs’ had gotten to everything, but as I patiently depleted that population by hand-picking, everything still failed to thrive. Double sigh. I don’t know whether to give up completely forever (what’s that famous Indian slogan: “I shall fight no more forever”?), OR try to succession-plant something like lettuce and chard, or just wait til next year?

Sorry to ramble on, but just wondered if you had any ideas?
Thanks - no emergency to respond, since the damage is already done.

Answer:

Thank you so much for your good feedback and support! We sure appreciate your business. Reno is really a hard place to garden and I’m sorry you’ve had such a difficult experience so far. But please, don’t give up yet! Gardening is all about trial and error, experimentation, and learning (there’s ALWAYS more to learn, even for the 20 year gardener!).
I’ll address your problems and offer possible reasons, as well as resources for you to look into for further information.
1.) Weird Brandywine bottoms-heirloom tomatoes often have lattice-looking bottoms, as well as funky ridges, it’s normal. If the bottom develops a rot, it could be a disease called Blossom End Rot. Here’s a good website for common tomato problems:

http://www.coopext.colostate.edu/4dmg/Pests/Diseases/tomaprob.htm

2.) Zucchini blossom wither-it could also be Blossom End Rot, or maybe poor pollination. Here’s a good discussion: http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf48032930.tip.html
3.) I say “yes” to planting cool season crops like chard, kale, and lettuce. Those crops are a bit easier to deal with, and they just might boost your confidence and joy for next Summers’ gardening endeavors.

I’d also like to add that square foot gardening has both pros and cons. As far as I understand, it is a more intensive system, requiring more input and attention (yes, you can grow a lot in a little space, but only if you do it just right!). The root systems are more crowded, and the plants are competing for resources since they are so close together, causing some extra stress. Here’s what seemed like a good, balanced testimonial on the subject: http://www.beginner-gardening.com/square-foot-gardening.html

There are many resources and forums online, this one is specific for square foot gardening:
http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/sqfoot/

Organic gardening shouldn’t be viewed as a “fight” or a “war” as our conventional counterparts would have you believe. It’s a chance to observe the patterns of nature and the cycles of growth. It’s finding the balance between human intervention and natural systems in order to achieve both abundance and health for all involved. Sure there are “successes” and “failures”, but the journey should bring joy to your heart. If you find that it doesn’t, maybe then consider doing something else that will.

Hope that helps and thank you for growing organically!

Q: Dwindling Yield in Shallot Productions

Thursday, August 13th, 2009

PVFS Customer Email with Staff Response

Question:

Question for you: I’ve grown garlics for many years for the Seed Savers Exchange and agree entirely with the tips given in this In the Loop release! I also have grown bunching onion, topset onion, and shallot varieties for the SSE for years, and this past year took on close to 100 additional allium and garlic varieties:

Should I provide any different care for shallots than I provide for garlics? I have experienced dwindling vigor and yields, even loss, of a few shallot varieties over the past 20-30 years, and while I will try hard to get these newly-acquired varieties out and in the hands of other growers as quickly as possible, I really need to find out what is causing them (and topsetting onions) to decline and fail over time in my garden, while garlics and bunching onions thrive. [I took on Louis VanDeven's collection last summer, close to 100 alliums and garlics, when at 89 he feared he would not be able to continue to maintain them. He passed away this summer, knowing that only two varieties had not survived the move, and all the others had produced a healthy abundant yield in their new home....]

Answer:

The first thought that comes to mind is, Are you using a three-year crop rotation and not planting the shallots (any alliums) in the same place every year? The second thought is if you have had a soil test done to see what nutrients are missing form the soil? Also, I would check with your county agricultural office as they may have been asked this information from other farmers in your area. Other farmers would be another source.

It sounds like you have something pretty special and I hope you find the information you need!

Friends in Low Places

Wednesday, July 22nd, 2009

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Our garden is blooming like crazy! Over the last few weeks, we’ve been harvesting Mizuna, Asian Greens, Romaine, Green Beans, Beets and Zucchini! We’ve had a few pest problems…and a few solutions.

First, we found a quick and easy aphid solution. Simply mix one part each molasses, soy sauce and vegetable oil, and put into a clean tuna can or other DISPOSABLE container (unless you like reusing a watery aphid graveyard). Put out at night, find dozens dead in the morning. We noticed a dramatic reduction in our damaged plants almost immediately, and have been practically aphid-free for weeks!

Additionally, we planted the Good Bug Blend when we started our garden, and found a surprise guest on our Asian Greens last night: lady beetles.

More to the point, we found dozens. These aren’t lady bugs, mind you — more like their big cousins who’ve spent some time working out. Nevertheless, proof that the mix works!

More to come as the season progresses…

Q: Getting Maximum Garlic Flavor

Wednesday, July 15th, 2009

Question from a customer:

Hi There,

Regarding curing garlic, is it OK to cut off the roots and/or the tops right after you dig it and then cure it on screens in the shade? Is it OK (will it continue to gain flavor) to cut off the roots and braid the soft neck varieties a day or so after it is dug? I want to gain as much flavor as possible but would like to get it ready as soon as possible after being dug.

Answer:

I don’t think it matters much if you cut the roots off after digging, but it is probably best to keep the tops (or most of the top) attached while you cure the garlic. Most growers think that the garlic head absorbs more nutrient from the top as it cures. If you are going to braid the garlic, you certainly don”t want to cut off the tops anyway. Usually, the garlic is cured for several days before you braid them and once braided you need to make sure there is good air circulation around the garlic, as it finishes curing. The curing process is probably 2-4 weeks, depending on temps and humidity.