Archive for the ‘Tips and Tricks’ Category

Q: Dogs and Endophyte Lawn Mixes

Saturday, July 11th, 2009

A PVFS customer question received by email - Staff response.

Question:

I have a question regarding the Tough Turf Lawn Seed (and any other endophyte-enhanced seed in general), as well as the Herbal Lawn Mix or similar.  I notice you indicate that both of these are “not appropriate for pasture,” but what about it being used around dogs?  I realize dogs tend to graze on grass when their stomachs are upset, so I wondered if we should avoid using any endophyte-enhanced seed or herbal/wildflower mixes around them.  If so, could you recommend any of your other products (i.e., any Native Grass Mixes) instead?  We’re in Southern California (zip 91708 / zone 9), and we intend to plant a small lawn in mostly sun, with the hope of planting a shade tree in part of it.  Any guidance you can provide would be much appreciated!

Kind Regards.

Answer:

I have checked into your question with the folks at the seed company and they told me that the endophyte enhancement only affects ruminants like cows, it does not affect dogs.  If you are curious as to what “endophyte-enhanced” means, its just a fungus that forms a symbiotic relationship with the grass.  It’s been shown to improve the plants’ ability to retain moisture and nutrients.  Here is a really good explanation.

Hope that helps and thank you for growing organically!

Q: Filtering Chloramine from Compost Tea

Thursday, July 9th, 2009

PVFS Customer Email with Staff Response

Question:

I am an avid home brewer of compost tea. I use to rid my water of chlorine by running the pump 1 hour prior to brewing. However, I have now moved to an area that has chloramine treated water. It is my understanding that chloramine cannot be removed using the same process as the chlorine. Will the subject Gard ‘N Gro Garden Filter remove chloramine to the extent that it will not kill off the microbial activity in the “soil soup” or compost tea?

Thanks for your help! I need to find an answer as I don’t want to have to buy bottled water to make the tea!

Answer:

I spoke to the manufacturer of the Gard ‘N Gro Dechlorinating Filter about your question. Although that filter does remove some of the chloramine (maybe about a 25-30% reduction), to remove more requires slower flow rates and more of the media in the filter. They make a product called the Green Knight Hydroponic Dechlorinator made for your type of situation. It is designed to reduce the chlorine and chloramine in tap water when filling hydroponic nutrient tanks. It removes 85-90% of the chlorine and reduces chloramine over 60%. It uses a much slower flow rate and has twice as much filtering media and surface area than the Gard ‘N Gro Dechlorinating Filter. It does not use replaceable cartridges, but has a 30,000 gallon capacity. It reduces more chloramine if the water pH is in the low sevens or lower and the warmer the water, the more effective it is. We haven’t offered the Green Knight in our catalog, although we may in next year’s catalog. We can get one in with our next order, if you want to order one. They are approximately $10 more than the Gard ‘N Gro Dechlorinating Filter. We will be placing an order with the manufacturer within the next week or so. Let me know if you want to order one.

Thank you for growing organically!

This correspondence Continued:

Reply from Customer:

Wow!  Thanks for all the research!

I do think I may want to order the Green Knight Hydroponic Dechlorinator.  However, before I do I need to know more.  Does this filter hook up “in-line” between your faucet and a hose, or is it bigger than that requiring some sort of installation?  And I still don’t know if the 60% reduction is good enough for brewing compost tea.  Do you have a sense of that since you are offering compost tea brewers now?  Is this something that you would recommend to customers buying your compost tea brewers and supplies?

Many, many thanks.  This issue with chloramines in the water and compost tea is a tricky one.  A google search on the internet indicates that there are a LOT of people looking for answers but there aren’t any out there really.  Humic acid and fish aquarium neutralizers are the only suggestions.  The fish aquarium neutralizers are all sodium based…..not good for the soil!  All this is food for thought for a New Product Development Manager………….

Response From our Staff:

The Green Knight comes with the same 3 foot vinyl reinforced hose saver that comes with the Gard ‘N Gro Dechlorinating Filter.  It attaches to the hose bib and then to the filter.  The Green Knight also comes with a built in pre-filter for particulate matter, so you don’t have to buy a separate pre-filter.  I am trying to find out from some compost tea experts if 60-70% reduction in chloramines is adequate.  If I get more info, I’ll let you know.  I’m also not sure if the amount of sodium in the aquarium neutralizers is significant enough to be a detriment to the soil or the compost tea itself.  I am not familiar with what is in them or what chemical reaction occurs when it eliminates the chloramine.  If you know, please let me know.

Q: Cover Crop Above Septic System

Tuesday, July 7th, 2009

PVFS Staff reply to customer questions:

In response to our conversation of your situation, of which I understand the following:
-want low growing
-want to incorporate wildflowers
-need shallow roots (since above septic)
-will not water in the summer

It’s important to note that many wildflowers are not low growing.  If this is acceptable, the mix I would say best meets your needs is our Premium Erosion Mix. As you can read in the description, the grasses and clovers are low growing with strong roots, but it does have a taller wildflower mix added.  An alternative would be to purchase all the same grasses and clovers individually, but add our Low Growing Wildflower Mix instead of what it already contains.

The very best way to ensure a good stand is to plant in the Fall and make sure it is consistently watered during germination.  If the timing is right, the seed should germinate and the roots start growing while the soil is still warm enough for it to do so (I don’t know where your cabin is, but in Nevada City, October is a good time).  The winter rains will then take over and since the root system will be established, the seed will not wash away.  The top growth is slow due to cool ambient temperature, but in the Spring, the plants will come up quickly.  Since the mix consists of annual plants, they will go through their life cycle, through flowering and seed forming, then drop their seed for the next year.  The plants themselves will brown and die.

If this kind of care and timing is not possible, plant when you need to, but realize that your success rate may not be great (you might consider seeding at a heavier rate).  The dangers of planting seed in summer is that they may dry out or get eaten by birds (put some straw over the seeds to minimize those effects).  I would suggest NOT watering if you are planting this summer, because if the seeds germinate, the seedlings will perish without consistent watering through the summer; just let the rains take care of them when the rains come.

Hope that helps and thank you for growing organically!

Q: Saving Sudangrass Seed

Monday, July 6th, 2009

Question:

I have been growing sudangrass that I have purchase from peaceful valley.

Is this seed viable for replanting. I live in Hawaii. It is expensive to buy large quantities and pay shipping too.

If so, when should sudangrass be cut and how long should seeds dry be fore planting seeds.

Mahalo,

Answer:
Yes, you could save the sudangrass seed. The seed should thoroughly dry on the plant before you harvest it. Here is some general information on sudangrass from our website www.groworganic.com;

Warm season cover crop. King of the organic matter-producing, weed-choking cover crops and one of the most vigorous summer plants. Grows to 8′ on hot, fertile, irrigated soil. Reduces many species of nematodes and symphylans when grown as a rotation crop, because it secretes a nematocidal acid from its roots as it decomposes. Useful for reducing excess soil Nitrogen.

Can be harvested for hay; horses and cattle love it, but note that Sudangrass is toxic to livestock immediately after frost and possibly when plants are young (up to 24″ tall) or stressed. Matures to hay in 75-80 days; to seed in 105 days, with very little irrigation.

Hope this helps,

Q: “Clay-ish” Compost

Saturday, July 4th, 2009

A Question from a PVFS Customer - with employee answer.

Question:
I recently got some inexpensive compost at the local green waste dump in San
Juan Capistrano. The compost looks good, but when I watered it, it got very
sticky and heavy — clay-ish, I think. This seems strange for compost, but
that’s what the guy said it was. I know that the soil test you offer says
not suitable for compost, but I want to know whether this compost is any
good and what I should add too it to improve drainage and tilth. What do
you suggest I do?

Thanks so much,

Answer:

Usually well decomposed compost is moist and crumbly, not sticky. It sounds
like something was added to the green waste. It’s hard to tell what it might
be without seeing it so I suggest you take it to your local county farm
advisor’s office to see if they can help you. You may need to add a
different compost or soil conditioner to this to be improve its friability.

Hope this info helps,

Q: Diseased Squash Plants

Thursday, July 2nd, 2009

PVFS Customer question - PVFS employee answered

Question:

Last summer all four of my squash plants came down with a whitish-gray spotty/moldy disease. They grew beautiful and healthy for most of the summer but several weeks after the disease set in, they started to shrivel and die. I’m wondering if anyone can give me some insights as to why this happened and also if its something that is likely to happen this year and/or how I can prevent it.

Thanks so much!

Answer:

The symptoms you described could be a few things. My first thought is Powdery Mildew, or maybe Botrytis. You might consider consulting with your local Master Gardeners office or nursery in more detail. If it is one one of the two I mentioned, you could increase the air circulation around the plants (plant them farther apart, thin the leaves, etc.). Compost tea is a great thing to use if you have local access. It will increase the overall health of your plants and soil, and inoculate the leaves with microbes to battle fungus.

Hope that helps!
Thank you for growing organically,

Bean trellis & irrigation

Monday, June 29th, 2009

Here is a good use of emitterline and bean scaffolding.

The scaffold is made of 1 1/4” X 8’ redwood stakes lashed at the top where they cross and then extra cross beams for strength. The stakes are 12” apart to coincide with the emitterline holes and then the beans planted at the same point. It really cuts down on weeds, virtually none, and only the beans get the water. They immediately start climbing the stakes and are easy to harvest because they are up off the ground.

The first and third pictures were taken on June 20, and the second picture was taken June 27. They’ve grown a lot in the recent heat. They also create a nice shady spot inside for my fox terrier to escape the sun. The birds like to perch on top of the stakes and are hopefully eating any worms or other unwanted insects. I hope this might inspire someone to build something pretty in the garden that functions so well. It also comes apart easily and stores well for the next season.

Q: Garlic Heads Turned Brown

Friday, June 26th, 2009

Customer Email - PVFS staff response.

Question:

Hi everyone at Peaceful Valley –

I’ve grown your wonderful Music hardneck garlic for a few years but this year most of my heads have turned brown, although they did grow scapes, and upon pulling them up they smell funny and have no roots!  Wonder what is going on.  Any ideas?

No sign of rodent or insects.

Would like to hear from you in this regard.  – No hurry.

Many thanks.

Answer:

Hi Judy,

Two possibilities came to mind when reading about your garlic. Could they have been standing in water for an extended period? The forming bulb may have had enough energy to produce a scape before it rotted.

The other possibility is that a soil born disease affected your garlic. Have you been rotating your garlic crop? Most garlic growers use a minimum 3-year rotation. Did you use saved seed-garlic?

Hope my questions help,

Q: My basil is turning yellow!

Tuesday, June 16th, 2009

I’m new to gardening and tried planting basil in a wooden pot. It flourished at first but now the leaves are turning yellow. It’s been growing about one month. Do I need to add some type of plant food?

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Q: Raised Beds Preparation

Thursday, June 4th, 2009

A PVFS customer email - with staff response.

Question:

I have made a raised bed garden past month. The soil needs preparing for Spring. What do you recommend? I would like to get something planted down to get some nitrogen fixation and to make the soil more loamy. I live near Pasadena and the soil in the raised beds is more sandy with little clay component. I am currently growing several fruit trees in the center of each raised bed. Plenty of .

thoughts? I do have plenty of Azomite, sun and non-chlorinated mountain water for irrigation

Answer:

Our most popular cover crop is called the Soil Builder mix. It’s a mix of vetches, peas, bell beans, and oats. It provides a lot of growth for organic matter and fixes a lot of nitrogen, especially when you use an inoculant. The part number is SCM120, the inoculant is ISE350.

Since you have trees in the beds, be careful when incorporating the cover crop into the soil in the spring. You might consider not tilling in the crop inside of the drip line of the trees, but pull it out and compost it instead. Outside of the drip line, you can dig in the crop manually or with a rototiller. Wait 4-6 weeks after incorporation to plant anything in the beds.

Hope that helps! Thank you for growing organically!